Breakfast Obsession: Hell's Kitchen

I've been putting a new emphasis on breakfast and brunch and hope to author a few posts concentrating on these subjects in the near future, especially since the majority of this blog has focused on meals that occur later in the day. I'm really trying to get Cafe Maude as well as Levain's brunch in the next couple of weeks (I'll have to work a trip into my favorite, Zumbro Cafe, too!), so stay tuned.

I had brunch a few weeks back at Hell's Kitchen and was impressed with the operation they run there. The menu is diverse with some seriously creative dishes and I think it offers great fare that can satisfy even the pickiest eaters. The place was packed and everyone was having a good time (seriously lots of drinking going on for a Sunday morning), so I figured I was in for a treat - a serious underestimation. Jess and I each decided to focus on the "unch" portion of brunch by ordering sandwiches, but I had heard so much about their sausage bread that I decided we had to try some.

One bite of this majestic bread is every bit as spiritual as the most dramatic gospel reading and it's dense enough to serve as a solid meal on its own. Looking beyond the perfect texture, you'll find that the flavor is amazing. The thought of sausage bread is odd and the flavors are quite bi-polar, but trust me here. The sausage provides a savory hint, but isn't too overpowering. The finished product tastes much more like a really eclectic spice cake with an extra savory element. The walnuts, black currants and coffee combination pack in bold flavors that compliment the sausage, and is yet to be matched in any of my breakfast adventures. It was easily one of the best, if not the best baked good I have ever tasted. I'm instantly addicted and will have to get back there soon to calm this peculiar reoccurring craving. I'll be back at Hell's for sure and suggest that you check it out next time you're looking for a little pick-me-up or a good hangover cure!

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

The Armatage Room Brings Dessert to a Whole New Level

I was searching around for some good food news the other day and discovered a juicy bit of food news from AZ . Turns out my neighboring Armatage Room will be hosting the mother of all dessert events. On Sunday, March 22nd Adrienne Odom, previously of Aquavit and Gotham Bar and Grill (to name only a few, mind you) fame, will be putting on what promises to be a outrageous five course dessert and wine tasting. To me, this event highlights the shift back to the indulgence and comfort of the Sunday Supper. Odom boasts the resume of a true pastry rock star and her craft will be in the spotlight for what I can imagine will be a rare and exciting event. I was at Cafe Maude on Sunday and decided to do some snooping and turned up what is a beyond promising menu. Please note that each of the below courses will be paired with wine, beer or coffee.

Passion Fruit Curd

Tropical Fruit Tartare and Ricotta Sorbet

Sheeps' Yogurt Cheesecake

Ras El Hanout Shortbread

Oven Roasted Pears

(Tell me this doesn't sound amazing)

Warm Olive Oil Cake

Sherry Poached Figs

Fig Ice Cream

Saffron Orange Gel

Thyme Ice Cream, Chocolate and Sea Salt

Chocolate Caramel Tart

Earl Grey Parfait and Citrus Dust

Assorted Handmade Chocolates

(Three of my favorite words)

I'm not a huge dessert guy as my taste buds seem to lean more towards the savory, but calling the above simply "dessert" clearly isn't doing the menu justice. This sounds like a truly unique experience that is not to be missed. The cost of the event is $45 and reservations are required.

Call 612-822-5411 or visit info@cafemaude.com for more info on this limited event.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Food and Wine Show

I do some volunteer work for a really cool initiative in the beer category, and one of the perks was getting to do some pouring at the Food and Wine show last weekend. I'd never been before, but know that people make a big stink (OK, not a good food term) about it every winter. Since I was technically an exhibitor I was able to get in early and really walk around the place before the crowds arrived. There were a staggering number of vendors there touching almost every food and beverage category including beer, wine, restaurants, catering, kitchen furnishings and an expansive group of dairy farmers (shout out to Burnett county) to name just a few.



Before I knew it the Convention Center was filled with the sweet smells of cooking. The guys from Zhatar were grilling little Kobe sliders and a few folks were roasting some pork. You could catch a hint of fresh oyster as you strutted by the Stella's booth, and the folks over at Thousand Hills always had something good going - I tried their weenies for the first time and will have to pick some franks up this grilling season. Soon the whole place was filled with the aromas of peace coffee, BBQ and just about anything else you could imagine. All the folks that were setting up seemed to be in great spirits. We exchanged a few beer samples for a nosh here and there, and everyone seemed more than willing to take care of each other. There were a lot of demos starting to get set up and I would have loved to observed, but I knew we were about to get started I quickly made my way back to the FINNEGANS booth.



All of a sudden the doors opened and the masses flooded in. Before I knew it, people were flying around with their glasses out and were lining up to try a little sample of everything. It all seemed a bit odd as I feel that food is something to be appreciated in a nice setting with good conversation. This event was seemingly more conducive to eating while on a run amongst thousands of your closest strangers, which I didn't really care for. The lines to sample became quite long and I could tell this event required an odd juxtaposition of patience and urgency that seemed really unappealing. I couldn't believe how long the line was at Qdoba when there were so many other great vendors there to enjoy. The whole vibe was a bit commercial, and I quickly realized that I was glad I was there to volunteer and help out vs. shelling out some serious coin to graze with the masses - especially on fare that was essentially being cooked on little grills or hot plates - it all seemed very rushed. I think I'd rather take the $65 or so and cruise to a nice Saturday or Sunday meal with a small group instead of flinging myself to the hoards in hopes of grabbing a few bites here and there. I'm down for family style eating, but if I'm going to do that, I'd rather do it in a bit more intimate environment.

Hope everyone is enjoying restaurant week.

Happy Eating,


-Teddy

Lucia's Wine Bar

It had been a while since I had visited Lucia's in Uptown, so I figured that her recognition in the James Beard Semis for Outstanding Restaurant was a compelling enough reason to reacquaint myself with this charming eateries. Lucia's covers the gastronomic spectrum through her bakery/take-out biz, her wine bar and her full service restaurant. She's got you covered no matter what experience you are looking for, and she does this all while utilizing only the freshest, seasonal ingredients.

My trip last week was spur of the moment, so I decided to try my luck at the wine bar. We managed to get a nice corner table after enjoying only a few sips of my Bell's Amber. The menu was eclectic as always (I was a little bummed it was different from the one they had posted online), and since I am notorious for wavering between dishes, I decided to go with a non-traditional melange of sorts in order to sample the variety of expertise Lucia brings to her business. I started with a split pea and ham soup. I haven't always been open-minded about food in the past, and normally the words "pea soup" forced me to put on a stupid face. I'm glad I finally came around. The ham in the soup was smoky and rich and the peas offered a nice earthy contrast. The textures were quite nice, and I always appreciate a simple, well executed soup on a cold night.

My next dish was a plate of french sausage with a nice grainy mustard and some crisp apples. The sausages were really nice with perfect marbling and a nice meaty finish. Its rich savory flavor offered the perfect contrast to the crisp, sweet and tart apples. This classic pairing was supported by a really excellent grainy mustard with a pungent and spicy finish. It's the perfect sort of dish to enjoy on a nice fall day at the lake with a good bottle of wine and the perfect companion (I'll have file that away for late September).

My bi-polar disorder (for food) really kicked in when Jess and I decided the split an order of spicy chicken tacos with charred salsa, sour cream and cilantro for our final dish. A few accompanying lime wedges kept things bright and the cilantro added a nice element of freshness - it's almost cruel to enjoy these flavors when it's below freezing. The real hero of the dish was the juicy marinated chicken that was gracious enough to lend its bold juices to soak the perfectly warmed La Perla tortillas. A nice robust salsa added a depth of flavor, and elevated these tacos to a close runner-up to my favorites at Cafe 28.

I love Lucia's for many reasons. Maybe it's their ever-changing menu bursting with imagination and fresh flavors. Maybe it's their thoughtful beer and wine lists. Maybe it's the always warm and friendly service, but when it comes down to it, I love going there because of the sense of escapism you enjoy when you relax over a nice simple meal with good company. It's as if all your troubles have punched out for the night, and during times like these, that's priceless.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Rinata: Al Vento's Twin Sister

The Uptown area has been buzzing about the opening of Rinata (the twin sister-restaurant to Al Vento), an Italian joint that has been breathing new life into the old Georgio's space on Hennepin Ave. Georgio's had fallen off pretty significantly towards the end, and the arrival of Rinata and chef Jonathan Hunt brings a new and credible restaurant to an area in much need of an oasis for good Italian food.

Hunt has been toiling at Al Vento for a few years now, and must have felt the itch to expand on a good thing, because the comparison between the two restaurants is staggering. Much like Al Vento, Rinata's menu is focused and diverse, with a wide range of offerings surrounding the pasta/risotto and pizza category. I've been a huge fan of Hunt's traditional pasta dishes for several years, but noted that he appears to have not carried over his heralded "Mother Sauce" from Al Vento - at least he isn't merchandising it on the menu.

The service at Rinata was friendly (again, an identical trait from Al Vento), but running a bit thin for the crowd that had compiled on a Tuesday night. Our longer then usual wait for first contact was quickly forgotten when our waiter walked us though the menu and displayed his knowledge of the preparations and recommendations. I was feeling like a simple pasta, but after everyone placed their order for more traditional dishes, I decided to test the range of the kitchen by ordering a risotto with braised boar. I'm a huge fan of boar and am quick to order it when I find it on a menu. The only other places I can recall finding it on a menu are Broders' and Heartland. Needless to say, my anticipation was high.

A few moments later our wine arrived accompanied by a nice fresh basket of Rinata's perfectly salty, crispy crusted, but soft centered focaccia. I could have eaten a whole loaf on my own with my earthy red wine, but held off to allow ample room for my risotto. Our waiter ushered our order out much faster then I had anticipated and we all quickly analyzed our dishes before digging in. I couldn't help but notice how soupy the risotto looked. It seemed a bit over sauced (Al Vento is always heavy on the sauce, too) for risotto, but I didn't let that deter me too much.

The boar was more of an extra flavorful pork and lacked the gamy finish I've come to associate it with. It was tender and delicate, indicating that it had been well prepared, but I was expecting a bit of a stiffer bite from a traditionally rich and bold protein. Similarly, the risotto which is typically known for it's creamy texture and comforting finish, was a bit grainier then I expected. The difference between undercooked and overcooked can be a matter of seconds, so it is a fine line to walk and of course everyone has a varying opinion. It still absorbed the flavors of the bold and perfectly crafted sauce, as risottos traditionally do, but lacked the laborious smooth texture I enjoy so much.

I did manage to steal a few bites Jessi's spaghetti and and the two enormous homemade meatballs that accompanied it. The tomato sugo was bold and a step above the sauce you find in most pasta places and the meatballs were second to none. The meat was rich, flavorful, moist and just all around perfect.

I'll be back to Rinata for sure, but will likely stick to something not so dependant on a unique ingredient or move to their lauded pizza. I feel like the Al Vento staff can better handle the more unique offerings, but will make sure to take advantage of the classics that Rinata seems to perfectly craft. Regardless, Hunt has created a second outlet for great Italian food in an area that really needs it, and I look forward to my return.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Golden Fig - Grand Ave. St. Paul

My parents gave me a great little book called eat.shop twin cities for Christmas and I've found that it has proven itself most useful. I already have a lengthy list of new places I want to eat at, and a few shops I want to try and hit as well. One of the places featured in the great little book spans the gap between eating and shopping. It's called The Golden Fig and it's comfortably nestled on Grand Avenue near Grotto and Avalon.

The store is filled with a wide range of culinary goodies ranging from artisan salad dressings to dips, spreads, vinegars, craft cheeses and sustainably raised meats. They really do have a tremendous selection and there are samples everywhere! You could skip lunch if you plan your trip well, or should stop in if you are looking to buy something new and wouldn't mind a nice snack! I fell victim to the East Shore dipping mustard spiked with chipotle (they wrap things son nicely!). I know it's primary use is for dipping, but I spread it on bread to give sandwiches a good wallop of flavor.
They were sampling a carrot ginger soup that was divine and also sell a few other homemade goodies including take-and-bake mac and cheese! Pair the soup with a nice bubbly mac and cheese and you have the perfect cold busting lunch. Add a nice green salad with one of the many salad dressings they sell and you've got a robust, decadent and flavorful dinner. I recommend you check it out ASAP!

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper

You know you're a food enthusiast when at the age of 26, you hope to get cookbooks, a table top griddle and a mandolin for Christmas. Although I've enjoyed all those gifts, I may have put one of them to use more then the others in the last few weeks.

Lynne Rossetto Kasper and Sally Swift converged to create an awesome book titled "How to Eat Supper," and I really recommend that you check it out, regardless of whether or not you are an advanced cook or even if you cook all that often. The book does a nice job of dissecting dinner and all it's courses including salads, soups, eggs and small plates, vegetable main events, pasta, main dishes, sides and sweets. The book is full of tremendous recipes (The Cuban Black Bean Stew is perfection) and cooking tips, but I really like all the additional little extras they've baked in.

There are all sorts of little goodies sprinkled throughout on a variety of subjects including how to pick out the perfect kitchenware arsenal, and how to build dressing and soup bases to be expanded upon in a number of variations. They even get as detailed as to instruct you upon which tomatoes are the best for what application, which greens make the best pairings for salads and what to do with leftover or rapidly aging bread. This book is part frugal, and all, simple and flavorful gourmet. I highly recommend checking it out! Let me know if you've picked up any good books recently as I am rapidly building my library.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy