Il Gatto and the killer salad

I didn't have high hopes for Il Gatto, though I admit that it wasn't exactly fair. I had become totally bored with Figlio and was excited that a new concept was coming into the space, but for whatever reason I couldn't get too excited for it. I was however, excited to meet a few friends for dinner a few Fridays ago, though we were in the heart of Lent, and none of us could eat meat. We decided a pasta/seafood joint would offer enough variety to get us through, and figured it would be a good time to try Il Gatto.

The one thing I was willing to admit right off the bat, is that I like the ambiance and layout much better at Il Gatto. Thank God they did something about the bar. We perused the wine list and ordered a few glasses before jumping on the main menu. I decided I'd get a simple margherita pizza since I had heard their pizza was good and wanted to start the meal off with their isalata rucola. The salad, was quite simply, one of the best I'd had all year (The winter caprese at Broders' still take the cake). The greens were spot on, the dressing strong, yet not overpowering and the portion perfectly arranged. The cherry tomatoes and diced peppers provided a sweetness that helped offset the powerful, but pleasant citrus vinaigrette and the peppery arugula proved a bitter foil for the sweetness and tatartness of the lemon. Lastly, the grana padano rounded out this sweet, bitter, tart and salty plate. All of the flavors were loud, yet balanced by the power of their companions -- good company indeed.

I have to say that the fall off from there was fast. The pizza I ordered had a great crust with plenty of crackle, char and pull. The sauce, However, was about as entertaining as a Jennifer Aniston flick. The mozzarella, though homemade, was pretty pedestrian and the basil alone couldn't overcome the other short comings. A margherita pizza can be a thing of beauty built on simplicity, but this execution just fell short. A sample of Jessi's three cheese ravioli proved rich, strong and all-together overwhelming, wearing the senses out as quickly as an overly-hopped IPA.

So the experience was mixed, but I'll give Il Gatto another shot when I can go back and explore the menu a little more, but again, my hopes won't be too high, though I'd love to be proven wrong.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Epic Sandwich: Lucia's To Go

Lucia's is one of my favorite places to eat in all of the Twin Cities. The main restaurant is exquisite, their wine bar (my favorite) has the kind of food that inspires me to go home and cook, and Lucia's To Go is there to bail me out when I need something good, but have to do it on the fly. Full review here.

Oh, don't miss out on their mini Budapest cakes!

Lucia's Wine Bar

It had been a while since I had visited Lucia's in Uptown, so I figured that her recognition in the James Beard Semis for Outstanding Restaurant was a compelling enough reason to reacquaint myself with this charming eateries. Lucia's covers the gastronomic spectrum through her bakery/take-out biz, her wine bar and her full service restaurant. She's got you covered no matter what experience you are looking for, and she does this all while utilizing only the freshest, seasonal ingredients.

My trip last week was spur of the moment, so I decided to try my luck at the wine bar. We managed to get a nice corner table after enjoying only a few sips of my Bell's Amber. The menu was eclectic as always (I was a little bummed it was different from the one they had posted online), and since I am notorious for wavering between dishes, I decided to go with a non-traditional melange of sorts in order to sample the variety of expertise Lucia brings to her business. I started with a split pea and ham soup. I haven't always been open-minded about food in the past, and normally the words "pea soup" forced me to put on a stupid face. I'm glad I finally came around. The ham in the soup was smoky and rich and the peas offered a nice earthy contrast. The textures were quite nice, and I always appreciate a simple, well executed soup on a cold night.

My next dish was a plate of french sausage with a nice grainy mustard and some crisp apples. The sausages were really nice with perfect marbling and a nice meaty finish. Its rich savory flavor offered the perfect contrast to the crisp, sweet and tart apples. This classic pairing was supported by a really excellent grainy mustard with a pungent and spicy finish. It's the perfect sort of dish to enjoy on a nice fall day at the lake with a good bottle of wine and the perfect companion (I'll have file that away for late September).

My bi-polar disorder (for food) really kicked in when Jess and I decided the split an order of spicy chicken tacos with charred salsa, sour cream and cilantro for our final dish. A few accompanying lime wedges kept things bright and the cilantro added a nice element of freshness - it's almost cruel to enjoy these flavors when it's below freezing. The real hero of the dish was the juicy marinated chicken that was gracious enough to lend its bold juices to soak the perfectly warmed La Perla tortillas. A nice robust salsa added a depth of flavor, and elevated these tacos to a close runner-up to my favorites at Cafe 28.

I love Lucia's for many reasons. Maybe it's their ever-changing menu bursting with imagination and fresh flavors. Maybe it's their thoughtful beer and wine lists. Maybe it's the always warm and friendly service, but when it comes down to it, I love going there because of the sense of escapism you enjoy when you relax over a nice simple meal with good company. It's as if all your troubles have punched out for the night, and during times like these, that's priceless.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Rinata: Al Vento's Twin Sister

The Uptown area has been buzzing about the opening of Rinata (the twin sister-restaurant to Al Vento), an Italian joint that has been breathing new life into the old Georgio's space on Hennepin Ave. Georgio's had fallen off pretty significantly towards the end, and the arrival of Rinata and chef Jonathan Hunt brings a new and credible restaurant to an area in much need of an oasis for good Italian food.

Hunt has been toiling at Al Vento for a few years now, and must have felt the itch to expand on a good thing, because the comparison between the two restaurants is staggering. Much like Al Vento, Rinata's menu is focused and diverse, with a wide range of offerings surrounding the pasta/risotto and pizza category. I've been a huge fan of Hunt's traditional pasta dishes for several years, but noted that he appears to have not carried over his heralded "Mother Sauce" from Al Vento - at least he isn't merchandising it on the menu.

The service at Rinata was friendly (again, an identical trait from Al Vento), but running a bit thin for the crowd that had compiled on a Tuesday night. Our longer then usual wait for first contact was quickly forgotten when our waiter walked us though the menu and displayed his knowledge of the preparations and recommendations. I was feeling like a simple pasta, but after everyone placed their order for more traditional dishes, I decided to test the range of the kitchen by ordering a risotto with braised boar. I'm a huge fan of boar and am quick to order it when I find it on a menu. The only other places I can recall finding it on a menu are Broders' and Heartland. Needless to say, my anticipation was high.

A few moments later our wine arrived accompanied by a nice fresh basket of Rinata's perfectly salty, crispy crusted, but soft centered focaccia. I could have eaten a whole loaf on my own with my earthy red wine, but held off to allow ample room for my risotto. Our waiter ushered our order out much faster then I had anticipated and we all quickly analyzed our dishes before digging in. I couldn't help but notice how soupy the risotto looked. It seemed a bit over sauced (Al Vento is always heavy on the sauce, too) for risotto, but I didn't let that deter me too much.

The boar was more of an extra flavorful pork and lacked the gamy finish I've come to associate it with. It was tender and delicate, indicating that it had been well prepared, but I was expecting a bit of a stiffer bite from a traditionally rich and bold protein. Similarly, the risotto which is typically known for it's creamy texture and comforting finish, was a bit grainier then I expected. The difference between undercooked and overcooked can be a matter of seconds, so it is a fine line to walk and of course everyone has a varying opinion. It still absorbed the flavors of the bold and perfectly crafted sauce, as risottos traditionally do, but lacked the laborious smooth texture I enjoy so much.

I did manage to steal a few bites Jessi's spaghetti and and the two enormous homemade meatballs that accompanied it. The tomato sugo was bold and a step above the sauce you find in most pasta places and the meatballs were second to none. The meat was rich, flavorful, moist and just all around perfect.

I'll be back to Rinata for sure, but will likely stick to something not so dependant on a unique ingredient or move to their lauded pizza. I feel like the Al Vento staff can better handle the more unique offerings, but will make sure to take advantage of the classics that Rinata seems to perfectly craft. Regardless, Hunt has created a second outlet for great Italian food in an area that really needs it, and I look forward to my return.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Beware of Laptops - Common Roots Cafe

I've been intrigued by all that I've been reading about the Common Roots Cafe. Word on the street is that they have a mean bagel, and are celebrated for their devotion to local, sustainable and organic foods. I highly commend them for that and was looking very forward to heading there for a nice meal last Friday night.

First off, I have to sound off on the status of Lyndale Ave. It's a shame how long that's been torn up. It's a royal pain, in terms of getting around and has to be a huge hindrance to all the businesses in the area. After some driving around we finally made it to the Cafe and did the Minnesota cold walk (hunched sholders, hands buried in pockets, quick-choppy steps) from our parking spot.

I entered the room and was amazed at how many people were there on a Friday evening at about 8:45. The place was littered with people, but my attention was quickly diverted by two different but very important distractions. Upon taking a few steps in I noticed that the place just wasn't that clean. There were dishes all over tables and quite a bit of debris on the floors. I was a bit shocked by it, but hey, it was late, I was hungry and I figured everything would eventually get turned into compost or something. I was a bit discouraged by the counter service and server - again cleanliness of the space, and knowledge of the server, but we settled on the burger (I had heard good things) and the Chicken involtini/meatloaf that the server highly recommended.

We sat down and started to sip our drinks and I noticed the second distraction. This one held my attention longer then the cleanliness, and was a very bad sign in my mind: Everyone was on a laptop. Shit! I had just ordered dinner at a place that everyone else deemed a laptop joint. I was officially nervous. No one would ruin a good meal by surfing Craig's list, finishing a paper, or seeking a companion on match.com. No, they were likely here for other reason, and were not seeking stellar food.
Nervously I sat there and sucked down my Finnegan's as I waited in fearful anticipation. After a decent wait or food came out and I gave it a serious once-over. As usual, Jess and I had settled on 2 items with the intention to share. I started with the meatloaf and was totally underwhelmed. It was essentially flavorless, and the texture was quite odd - a granular tofu maybe? I think the "involtini" distinction was because they wrapped the loaf in the chicken skin. It was kinda gross. The slab of polenta that was served with it was greasy, limp and unappealing. It was all served on a bed of arugula which was the only portion of the plate with any flavor. Unfortunatley it had already drown in the grease from the meatloaf and polenta. Neeldless to say Jess didn't enjoy the dish (The one bite she managed) either and my suspision that I wasn't being very open was eliminated.

The burger was much better. I love a good grass-fed burger, and normally I'm all for goat cheese and caramelized onions, but the burger ended up being pretty sweet and a little top-heavy. The burger was definitely beyond my medium request, but still managed to retain a juicy consistency - which made me wonder what they added to it to maintain the juices despite the lean cut. The bun was very good, and grilled nicely. It was the best part of the meal, which was disappointing, however, I can now see that they do have some baking credentials

I learned my lesson: Never order dinner from a place where everyone else is on a laptop regardless of what you've heard others say. We didn't even finish our meal, and that is no small offense given my intense love for food. I'd maybe go back to Common Roots Cafe for baked goods or a sandwich. It seemed capable of pulling that off, and maybe if I got there earlier in the day the place would be cleaner. I'd like to see a place so dedicated to quality food succeed, but you won't catch me there for dinner again.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Rock Solid

So last night, I got a case of the lazys (blaming it on the rain), and rather then go out to the usually extravagant Tuesday night dinner, or cook something at home, I decided to head to one of my neighborhood favorites: Gigi's Cafe. In fact, it was so informal, that I forgot my camera - sorry, I need to get better about that, but when I'm thinking about food, it's hard to concentrate on anything else. Anyways, I'll definitely be back and will post pictures next time. See, the thing about Gigi's is that it is consistently good, fast, welcoming and best of all - Cheap! They offer a wide variety of dishes from pastas or salads with curry to Mexican, Italian, Thai and everything in between - even some delicious hybrids. They always have good pasta salads and comforting specials.

I'll check my usual food snob musings at the door here (no mention of flavor combinations starches, proteins or seasonings today). No, the food there is simple, tasty and rock solid. I go to Gigi's quite frequently and will continue to do so. 

Seriously though, if you haven't been to Gigi's you need to do so. Its quick counter service is the perfect stop before/after a shopping spree in Uptown or a nice walk around Lake Calhoun. Their menu changes daily, so they are always serving up something fresh, inventive and most importantly, delicious. Also, they have good, cheap beer. I think a Premium is $2 during Happy hour and a Summit EPA is $3. They have many more beers and actually crank out a pretty diverse list.

By the way, if Key Lime Pie/Tart is your thing (or dessert in general), then you need to floor it to Gigi's asap. I'm noticeably not huge on sweets, but my girlfriend and I attacked this hunk of sweet/tart preciousness with an aggression that would make any thing that ran on Shark Week look soft and un-motivating. 

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

A Few Notes

Went to Indio last Friday for the second time and it was just as good as the first. Our server was a bit odd, but we made it through. I went with a group of seven, so we were able to order a pretty wide sample of the menu. The Guacamole was good, but lots of places have decent Guac. I though the tosdatitas were really good personally - just the right amount of heat and and each portion (3 total) was just over a good sized Amuse Boush which I think is just right for an appetizer. I'd recommend this place for sure. If you aren't sure of their credentials, it's the same group that runs El Meson and Cafe Ena. Anyone that can have three successful ventures going in a city that is known for good Latin/Mexican food must be doing something right.

Heard from AZ that Alex Roberts is opening another Brasa location, possibly is St. Paul. I say bring it on. He serves up some mean pork, chicken and beef with legit sides. More Alex Roberts is a good sign by my standards. I find it hard to make my way over to Restaurant Alma, although I had a fabulous meal there, so if we can fold him in on Grand Ave. in St. Paul, I'll take it, although selfishly, I wouldn't mind another Brasa even closer to me in SW Minneapolis, or even say, in my own backyard.

Heading to Al Vento on Friday. I'll try and get a few shots and thoughts up on that.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Done with Duplex

So we tried Duplex again last night. Now, before I get into this, I have to give you the proper gastronomical history I have experienced at this establishment. My girlfriend and I had two phenomenal - top drawer, experiences there last year. Then, we went back in the late summer and they fired off a total dud. It wasn't pretty, and I won't get into the details, but I didn't consume more then a few bites of my food , which totally goes against the vacuum ethic I normally bring to the table when it's time to eat.

So, Jess and I made a pact. We said we would wait a few months and head back on a nice night when we could enjoy their patio and see if they could reverse the course we had been lead down our last time we dined there. I didn't happen.

We got there and the Duck "Sloppy Joe" (A  cute name for a braised duck sandwich) jumped off the menu at us. Jess and I both decided to order it only to find out the worst possible menu news that could have been whispered into our eager ears - "There's only one left." I hate that phrase, but chivalry is not dead, and I let Jess get the duck. I had been eyeing the ravioli and also caught the gnocchi at the last minute so I inquired with our server and she proclaimed that I should go with the gnocchi, for sure - so I did.

Mistake. Our server touted the gnocchi's perfect pan seared, yet soft consistency, and it was there, but pasta typically has some sort of sauce, which implies moisture and or liquid, and this arrangement totally missed that, feeling more akin to a large gnocchi hash then a true pasta. The accompanying ingredients were oven roasted tomatoes (which were quite good, roasted portabellos, rosemary and brown butter. Needless to say the brown butter was totally dried out and the pasta had more crunch to it then you would ever want from a nice pillowy gnocchi. A simple olive oil drizzle, more brown butter or even the oven roasted tomato jus could have pulsed a slight sense of salvation, but this was  a miss, and I just didn't enjoy it.

I will say that the duck dish that Jess ordered was pretty good. The duck and sauce were rich and spicy as a duck ragout/braise should be.  The only knock on it that I have was that it was served on what appeared to be a brioche or brioche like bun that quickly absorbed all the rich braising liquid making picking up the sandwich near impossible- but at the end of the day, it is a sloppy joe, and I need to get over myself.

I also can't get to the end of the post without saying that the sandwich was served with the hands-down best sweet potato fries that I have ever had. Perfectly sweet/salty and a great pair with the accompanying lemon aioli. 

So to recap - I have had 2 good experiences at Duplex, and now 2 very forgettable ones. I don't believe  return trip is in order either, when I have too many other places that I would rather try in the area. Fifty percent just isn't a good enough conversion rate for a city that is booming with other tantalizing culinary experiences. I did want to see if we could revive the memories of the past pleasant meals we've had there but it just didn't work out. 

If you do go I would peruse the menu here before hand and try and dine a bit later or go earlier for the happy hour (cheap beer/wine is a no-brainer). I will say that dining later tends to lead to a more limited menu. Also, check out the deserts. At $5 they are cheap and good, but the last 2 times we went we passed due to the results of the main course. If any one else out there has a Duplex experience, please share, as this is just one man's opinion

Happy Eating,

-Teddy