Epic Sandwich: France 44

France 44 is not only a great place to grab wine and beer, it's also a killer spot to grab some premo cheese and an awesome sandwich. In fact, I see myself eating several sandwiches there in the very near future. It's a jewel of a place in the heart of my 'hood and is loaded with top-notch sandwich ingredients. Full review of their killer chorizo sandwich here.

Epic Sandwich: Chatterbox Pub

I was hoping to find a fun way to wrap up a great Sunday so I decided to head over to Chatterbox Pub for some drinks, food and a little cheap entertainment. I had a great time, but was the food any good? Find out here.

Pizza Time!

I was reading through the SW Journal and almost jumped out of my pants when I read a short describing that one of my beloved corners is going to be adding a pizzeria! Never mind the increase in house value, I'm psyched for another potentially stellar SW eatery. Did I mention that I'm pumped!?

Anyways, a pizzeria called Lola's is going into the old Xerxes Market space and is literally stumbling distance from my place. It's also adjacent to Cave Vin, which is another stellar spot. This could be the next hot food corner! I'm so blessed to be so close to Broders', Cafe Maude and Cave Vin and now there's going to be a brand new spot to frequent. I can't get too excited considering I haven't tried a single slice yet, but if they live up to their "Cafe Maude meets Punch" Punch projections I could have a real winner across the street. Looks like the opening won't be until Aug/Sept --Vegas odds on that getting pushed? I for one can't wait!

I will also say that I hope there is room for this new joint and that Michelangelo's and Lake Harriet Pizza will continue to flourish - there's nor reason we can't support all these great local businesses!

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Dinning Deals in SW

So maybe the economy isn’t shifting as quickly as we would have liked under the new administration, but at least we still have a ton of great dining deals around town to help keep us satiated. A few of some of my favorite neighborhood spots are still offering some killer deals and although this list is by no means exhaustive, I feel that it gives you a great opportunity to enjoy the flavors of SW Minneapolis without breaking the bank. I’d also encourage you to visit the restaurant’s website or call ahead to make sure the dinning deal is accurate.

Prima, located over in Tangletown near the intersection of Diamond Lake Road and Lyndale Ave. is a casual Italian eatery that has some really nice antipasti, pasta, salads and a range on entrees including chops, chicken and seafood. I also am a huge fan of their Panini al Bistecca – think really thin rare roast beef with brie and caramelized onions. It’s a great place to stop after a busy day to enjoy some nice food in a casual setting – especially when you don’t have hours to spend over a long meal (I know, what a shame!).

Their killer dining deal is a prix fixe menu for two and includes half a carafe of their wine of the week, salad, pasta and dessert all for the low price of $28. Their offer is good after 8 p.m. Sun-TR and after 8:30 Fri and Sat. Kids also eat free on Monday nights (one free kids meal per adult entree).

Café Maude – Located near 54^th and Penn in the heart of SW is one of my favorite neighborhood spots. They serve creative Mediterranean creations including a lamb and saffron skewer (one of my favorite small plates), a nicoise olive and chicken flatbread and a really nice roasted half chicken with Moroccan spices and apricot to name a few. There’s a little something for everyone with their menu including small plates, sides, salads,cheese, a la carte offerings and big plates – the grilled pork tenderloin sounds awesome!

Their deal is available Sunday and Monday nights and features a three course prix fixe dinner that includes a glass of wine. A nice neighborhood setting, good food and vino is more then I could ever want for a mere $25. Café Maude is usually pretty jammed, so I’d call ahead for sure.

Broders’ – OK, I’m in love with the place. The setting is awesome, especially with their new outdoor antipasto bar and the food is top shelf all the way down the menu. The pastas are all hand made and the sauces are crafted with care and an amazing attention to detail. The variety on the menu is pretty stunning for a pasta bar.

Their deal includes a choice of 2 pastas (you have to choose from a limited menu, but there are quite a few choices including a bolognese, puttanesca and carbonara to name a few). You will also receive and olive assortment and a seasonal salad for two on top of a half bottle of a selected Italian red or white – all for just $28. This special runs Tuesday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Last, but not least, I have to include the half price bottle of wine nights at Cave Vin. It’s just right around the corner from my place and there are few places in the city where I have experienced such consistently awesome food and service.

They run the half price bottle special on Monday and Tuesday nights and their wine list has a nice selection to pair with their delicious rack of lamb and always-outstanding pork tenderloin. If nothing else you have to make your way in just to try the Mussels!

Happy Frugal Eating,

-Teddy

Cafe Cuba - Closed before it opened?

Drove by what is/was supposed to be the Cafe Cuba space which was slated to take over the former Betsy's Back Porch coffee house today and noticed a "for sale" sign in two of the windows. I couldn't help but notice that they took down the "Coming Soon" sign quite some time ago as well. Looks like they had been putting a lot of time and effort into the place, but maybe it folded as a result. I'm not sure though. I need to do some digging. It will be a huge disappointment if it isn't going to open, though. I was looking forward to having some good (hopefully) Cuban food near by. I guess it's still Victor's for me for the time being...

Anyone out there know anything about the situation?

Broders' Impeccable Pasta

There are good meals and then there are great ones... My most recent visit to Broders' Pasta Bar was one of the greats. Broders' always floats to the top of my mind when I think about solid restaurants where I know I can get a consistently good meal, and that consistent standard is no small order given the variety on their menu. Their whole roster of sauces ranges from classic to truly unique and their perfect homemade pasta serves as the ideal platform for which they deliver their bold, unique and impeccable flavors.

Since Jess and I were celebrating a special night we decided to forgo just simply ordering one of their behemoth bowls of pasta (easily enough for a meal), but rather enjoy our meal over a number of courses complete with a nice bottle of Chianti gifted to us by my incredibly generous parents. After our awesome waitress waltzed us through the menu with an astonishing level of detail and knowledge we decided to start with and arugula pesto and roasted garlic crostini.

It's amazing how such a simple sounding dish can be so amazing. The rustic bread was toasted to a perfect crispness offering a light crunch with a slight give as your teeth ventured together. The intensely green arugula pesto had a tremendous bite at the beginning, but mellowed as the flavors dispensed across the palate yielding to the more traditional cheese and garlic tones that linger at the end of a well-crafted pesto. Calling the roasted and caramelized whole cloves of garlic "sweet" would be like calling James Beard a "fan of food." It offered a perfectly malty and smooth component to excite your buds even though it was following the peppery presence of a pungent arugula. It's amazing how two such different sensations can yield such a satisfying result. They also provided a nice little olive oil sidecar that was perfectly earthy, while adding a nice layer of richness to the dish. I could have eaten a few more slices as a meal and been completely satisfied.

The next course was an insalata primavera -it was too hard to pass up the Sicilian inspired blood orange and olive oil dressing. A good portion of mixed tender greens showed up, and we split them across two plates. As we spooned the greens up we noticed the slightest bit of dressing rolling off the leaves so we got to moving quickly to salvage every last drop of the precious stuff. Broders' doesn't mess around with their olive oil, so I knew the dressing would be solid and the blood orange juice delivered the same citrus component that I grew to appreciate and quickly love when I spent my all-too-short (except for the Sicilian parking authorities) time in Sicily. Whenever food transports you back to a point in time, you know you are enjoying something special.

Now, the degree to which we enjoyed the first two courses is pretty amazing considering I normally just want to get straight to the pasta. I ordered the fettuccine with chicken, olives, grilled artichokes and fresh herbs. The sauce was incredibly light, yet flavorful and the pasta was perfectly tender with just the right amount of chew that to me, is the signal of a wonderfully al dente pasta. The grilled artichokes were light, and took on a nice twist from a slight char on the grill, while the dark portions of chicken incorporated into the sauce yielded a robust result. As much as I liked my pasta, it was a clear second place in comparison to the new front runner for my dish of the year - the tagliarini di Locanda de Lupo. This naughty pasta features prosciutto de Parma, truffle pesto and cream. It's bewildering to think that such few ingredients can create something so amazing. A single bite practically stopped my heart (not sure if it was because I was falling in love, or because I was struggling to process all cream). The pasta sauce was pure velvet, with an indescribable richness from the truffles. The cream and cheese mingled perfectly over the silken pasta, and the little slices of tender prosciutto produced just a slight edge of gaminess that could only be tamed by the decadence of the other ingredients. It was simply amazing.

We had yet another great meal at Broders' and the only thing that could possibly rival the food was the quality of my company. Their dedication to perfect pasta is what makes their classics, classic and their non-traditional dishes inspiring. The only problem is that just about everyone who appreciates good pasta already knows that this is the place in the Twin Cities to get the best, so you may have to be patient to get a table. Thankfully enough, Broders' is expanding their outdoor antipasti bar service so you can enjoy an even wider variety of their awesome antipasto outside. If there is a wait, I would take solace in the fact that it buys you a little more time to enjoy a glass of wine and some of their awesome starters on a cozy outdoor patio. Believe me, the wait is worth it.

A note about the pictures: The food was so good that I forgot to take them until we were half way done or almost finished! It's that good.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Blackbird Cafe's Scratch Brunch

I love the fact that the neighborhood restaurant pulse has been so strong in SW Minni. I enjoy fine dining with the best of them, but there's just a clearly different and more leisurely vibe in some of the neighborhood establishments. I really appreciate a restaurant's ability to match the pace of service and a price point to correspond with the makeup of a specific neighborhood, and Blackbird Cafe has done that perfectly in my opinion. If nothing else, I know there won't be any vultures circling over my table and that no one is going to give me the hard sell on the scallops.

Blackbird is nestled right between Heidi's and the Malt Shop, offering a nice little glimpse of the diversity we enjoy over here. The cafe serves creative twists on classics and a few surprises that change frequently, yet aren't overly refined. Everything is made from scratch, and if for whatever reason you don't like it, you have to at least appreciate the effort. I've enjoyed many meals there, but the chance to catch up with my mother offered a unique opportunity for me to check out their brunch capabilities. I've walked by before during brunch service and the place has been jammed, so I figured all those breakfast-seeking souls must be on to something.

A few menu items immediately jumped out, but I was slow to forget the two interesting options gracing their specials board. After a quick consultation with my mom, we decided to order and split (a request that the cafe was happy to accommodate) both the specials: A breakfast sandwich utilizing french toast slices with ham, scrambled eggs and Gruyere (similar to their Monte Cristo) and a frittata with sausage, olives, fontina and sage.

The service was spirited and our coffee arrived as quickly as the order rolled off our tongues. We set in for some catching up (my mom's business, cheese and bread making, canning, plans for the summer) and before we knew it our breakfast had arrived. The Breakfast sandwich was a monster triple decker. The bread was nicely gridded and the fluffy eggs were overflowing the edges. Griddled ham and the creamy melted cheese rounded out the classic, though the cheese was a bit sparse. The part I enjoyed the most was their orange marmalade. The sandwich was served with the typical maple syrup sidecar, but I thought the marmalade was a nice foil for the saltiness of the ham. Oh, and their house-made pickles are pretty mean too. I never would have ordered this sandwich on my own, but having my mom there, and the staff''s cooperation allowed us to share and enjoy the dish together.

The frittata came out just moments later and looked quite good. I rarely order frittatas outside of the friendly confides of Zumbro Cafe, but the thought of olives, sage and eggs intrigued me. The eggs were perfectly cooked, and managed to dodge the dry-out that can easily occur when crafting a frittata. The flavor combination was quite unique with a big savory hint from the sage and sausage - a killer combo on its own. The olives were unfortunately muted in comparison to the flavors expelled from the aromatics, but the creaminess of the fontina managed to keep everything in check and provided a solidifying element of texture. The only missing element was a small fruit or roasted potato garnish as the plat looked pretty plain.

I really enjoyed my breakfast at Blackbird and will be back both for the food, but also for the feeling I get from the place. The spirit is strong, the staff is friendly, and I'm typically fortunate enough to keep the kind of company that makes this place a perfect place to relax and enjoy a good-old made from scratch meal.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Lunch at the Armatage Room

Looks like the folks over at Cafe Maude are adding yet another dimension to the Armatage Room. Lunch service (on top of small plates, private dining and prix fixe) starts on May 4th and I believe runs Monday-Friday. The menu looks to be pretty simplistic featuring mostly sandwiches (I'll take the Reuben), a few salads and my personal favorite - fries and harissa. Full initial menu here.

I'll follow up with a little something more soon.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

The Armatage Room Brings Dessert to a Whole New Level

I was searching around for some good food news the other day and discovered a juicy bit of food news from AZ . Turns out my neighboring Armatage Room will be hosting the mother of all dessert events. On Sunday, March 22nd Adrienne Odom, previously of Aquavit and Gotham Bar and Grill (to name only a few, mind you) fame, will be putting on what promises to be a outrageous five course dessert and wine tasting. To me, this event highlights the shift back to the indulgence and comfort of the Sunday Supper. Odom boasts the resume of a true pastry rock star and her craft will be in the spotlight for what I can imagine will be a rare and exciting event. I was at Cafe Maude on Sunday and decided to do some snooping and turned up what is a beyond promising menu. Please note that each of the below courses will be paired with wine, beer or coffee.

Passion Fruit Curd

Tropical Fruit Tartare and Ricotta Sorbet

Sheeps' Yogurt Cheesecake

Ras El Hanout Shortbread

Oven Roasted Pears

(Tell me this doesn't sound amazing)

Warm Olive Oil Cake

Sherry Poached Figs

Fig Ice Cream

Saffron Orange Gel

Thyme Ice Cream, Chocolate and Sea Salt

Chocolate Caramel Tart

Earl Grey Parfait and Citrus Dust

Assorted Handmade Chocolates

(Three of my favorite words)

I'm not a huge dessert guy as my taste buds seem to lean more towards the savory, but calling the above simply "dessert" clearly isn't doing the menu justice. This sounds like a truly unique experience that is not to be missed. The cost of the event is $45 and reservations are required.

Call 612-822-5411 or visit info@cafemaude.com for more info on this limited event.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Musings of Maude

I love going out to a good dinner, and it had been a while since I'd ponied up and was itching to go out and enjoy a nice night. There's nothing better then walking into a room with a great atmosphere, intense aromas and some good friends to peek your appetite. Sitting down to vibrant food, and cocktail-laced conversation is pretty much my ideal. Unfortunately, between the holidays and the economy, I haven't been able to do it as much, but I'm not going to let it slow me down much anymore.



You can't read a restaurant blog without cringing over closings and small attendance, so I wanted to make an effort to hit a good spot somewhere close to home in order to keep the money in the community much like some of the pillars of the local food movement. I figured I'd head to Cafe Maude just down the street just in case the Armatage Room was open to give a new enterprise a shot. Their wine bar menu, featured Tuesday-Sunday when they don't have a private booking looked incredibly appealing and had some really imaginative offerings. It turns out it wasn't open (instant heartache) on this particular night, but we did score a seating in the main restaurant.



The vibe was strong as normal. Good house music, a strong neighborhood pulse and the clinking of wine glasses provided the rhythm to a good night of eating. Jess and I decided to go light given the recent holiday, but we found that we didn't have to suffer at all for it. Jess ordered there roasted corn chowder - I was eyeing it myself and knew I was in for a bite (mututal understanding) so I gravitated to the nicoise olive chicken flat bread.



The soup came out first and it was a nice substantial bowl. The texture was surprising - not your cream of corn standard, and played really well - robust enough to be a meal. The corn was roasted and sweet, and the fine dice on the potatoes soaked up the flavors well while offering substance. A nice red pepper component rounded out the broth flavors, which really paled in comparison the the crispy bacon and avocado topping. bacon and avocado is pretty much where it's at for me. I think they should run for the presidency in 2012. I'd be the first to sign on. The bacon was perfectly crispy and the avocado was smooth and luscious. Needless to say this was not your status quo soup, and follows Maude's blueprint for taking simple fare and really jazzing it up.



My deconstructed flat bread came out and looked really nice and fresh. I love arugula and it's peppery bite was a welcome feeling. The flat bread itself was a bit tough, and the pickled herb spread was a bit bland, but it really allowed the other flavors to stand out and do their thing. The feta was strong and pungent - a good mix with arugula and the chicken was cooked well and played with it's fellow party-goers well. The roasted red pepper offered some sweetness, and the raw, diced zucchini was an excellent, and unconventional addition. I've never really had raw zucchini in a dish now that I think of it, and it stood up really well. The olives actually played out as a puree which was really satisfying in the fact that it could now hit every bite and wasn't limited to just rolling around on my plate. Again, deconstruction at it's finest. It wasn't the best dish I've had at Maude, but it's a creative little insight into their world, and I left satisfied and happy, which is just what I was looking for. I'll say it again, there is nothing quite like spending a nice evening with good company, great food, and an enticing ambiance.



Next time, I'm going to hit the Armatage Room for sure!



Happy Eating,



-Teddy

Heidi's Part 2

So, I went to Heidi's for my girlfriend's birthday the other night and I'm happy to report that the food was incredible, and the service that I was so confused by the first time I visited was seamless and friendly. Really, the service was my only knock on the place and it was worlds better on this night. My apologies for the lack of pictures, but I didn't want to push my own agenda since it was a special occasion with good friends and family.

We went on a blustery Wednesday and the place was pretty darn full, as was the neighboring Blackbird Cafe where we enjoyed a pre-dinner drink. I called about a week in advance and could only get a 5 p.m. or 8 p.m. seating for a group of 6. Regardless, I'm glad the place is busy. With food that good, it should be.

So fortunately, I have friends that love to share so I got to enjoy several dishes over the course of the night. I had the hibernation-ready braised lamb shank. The meat was slide-off the bone tender and had a very deep lamb flavor. The braising liquid was robust and it sat on a nice wild rice salad. It was not a light dish, and braised lamb usually isn't. It was perfect for a nice cold Minnesota evening and was totally comforting.

My lady friend had the best dish of the night. It was essentially a pan seared chicken breast wrapped in a thin layer of delicate, crispy bacon. It was delicious and served on a flavorful cous cous with cauliflower. The true champion of this dish was the Kimchee beurre blanc. It was friggin amazing. I would have ordered a glass of it if possible. It tied everything together with a clean, spicy kick. The dish was seriously satisfying.

Last, I had a quick sample of the Australian Sea Bass. The bass had a perfect sear and the caramelized tones against the pure white fish was stunning. The moist, delicate fillet sat on a parsnip and parsley puree which offered a great texture and color contrast. Lastly, the creamy mussel foam added a tremendously rich flavor that balanced out the jolt of the parsley with the lightness of the fish.

I was very pleased with the experience yet again. It's hard having two great spots right next to each other, because I really enjoy Blackbird as well. Regardless, I'm in a good situation because they are both close to home, right here in SW.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

More Maude in Armatage

Looks like all the Cafe Maude lovers are going to have even more to celebrate within the next week or so. Quite some time ago the owners of the beloved Armatage neighborhood eatery announced that they would open up a private dining space coined the Armatage Room, and it turns out that the space will act as a wine bar when it's not rented out for the night. This seems like a smart move given that I find it hard to believe that the private room would be booked solid every night, which is pretty ambitious for a neighborhood joint. Regardless, they're smart business owners and they wouldn't be opening the space unless they could smell success. I for one am glad that the much lauded Maude will be expanding. I reached out to Ruth who is in charge of the Armatage Room logistics and found her most helpful.

Based on our conversation, the space should be open any day now. I've heard rumblings of Nov. 15 and I believe the space seats up to 32 comfortably. The Armatage Room sounds impressive utilizing a European setting  and touting Canadian pine tables, soft leathers, custom chandeliers and local art. Needless to say the ambiance will be quite nice for both glass of vino and a private dining space.

My favorite feature will be the room's own open kitchen which will support the majority of the food preparation. There's something about having a view of the craftsman who labor over our meals that gives you a connection to the craft and the food.  The menu sounds fantastic and features a six course feast with several options for each course as well as a tasting menu made up of Hors D'oeuvres, soups, salads, entrees and desserts. In addition, they also offer family style dinners that pull from the traditions of several European countries - think paella, cassoulet and lasagna.  The wine bar menu is eclectic in the Cafe Maude style featuring salads (Cobb and Greek), cheeses, cured meats, a pasta dish, braised lamb, meatballs and scallops as well as a few sweets! The one bummer: No hard booze! That's especially depressing since they mix some mean spirits across the street, but I'm sure the wine and beer list will be up to the challenge. More details here.  

Since it's private dining they defer to some common catering practices such as menu selection within a certain time of deposit and a final count within a week of the event. The room minimum (at least initially) runs $750 Sunday through Thursday and jumps to $1500 on the weekends not including tax and gratuities. 

Regardless, more Maude is a good thing for all, in my opinion. I've had some great meals there and have even enjoyed swinging by for a a quick drink and a tasty small plate (they've got killer upscale chicken wings!) when not indulging in a full blown dinner. Hopefully the Armatage Room will help thin the crowd at the typically packed house, but somehow I have the feeling they'll still be packing in.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Two Very Different Sides of France

So in case you didn't know, I live in SW Minneapolis and am conveniently located right next to several French restaurants (of varying degrees). Two of my most recent dining experiences featured Cave Vin on Xerxes and Salut in the 50th and France neighborhood (although I need to make it clear that Pierre's just down the street is a favorite too!). Both celebrate strong French roots, but both offer a very different take on French food.

I'll start with Cave Vin. My experience there was hands down one of the best  I've had this year. I'm a calamari freak, and although the calamari there was very good, (salty, perfectly fried with a pleasant twist of acid) it almost paled in comparison to the luscious mussels. These were perfectly steamed in a garlicky butter/wine broth that resonated well with the brininess of the plump mussels.

For my entree, I ordered a roasted pork loin with fingerling potatoes and smoky bacon. It was cooked perfect, well accented with a nice little pistachio crust that offered a nice textural contrast to the sweet, soft flesh. The crispy bacon included in the bed of fingerlings offered a quick jolt of salt and smoke to round everything out. It was one of the best pork dishes I'd ever had, and the bacon might have been the best I've ever enjoyed, and I have enjoyed a lot of bacon. I'm convinced it was either Fischer's or Nueske's, but regardless, it was amazing. I sampled my girlfriends' rack of lamb with English green lentils and it was just darn good. The lentils were perfectly earthy and spicy, and the rich, buttery lamb was  cooked to a medium rare perfection. It was simply one of the best meals I've had all year, and the service was impeccable - the perfect personalities to back a neighborhood cafe.

Last night I hit Salut (after I saw the wait to sit outside at Cafe 28) in the 50th and France area for my usual Tuesday night dining experience. I'm not huge on Salut. They have an amazing Croque Madame, and if you are in the mood for one of those (and your heart is ready to take it on) you need to look no further. Don't get me wrong, they have an awesome concept and are doing very well, but I just think the food is OK. They offer a nice mix of traditional French fare such as Coq Au Vin and Cotes du Boeuf, but I get the feeling most people go there for the smaller plates and sandwiches/salads. Knowing that I've been a bit disappointed with the items I've had there before I stayed with the Cheeseburger Royale and the typical order of calamari - which features a really nice spicy dipping sauce that I do really enjoy. The burger was good, but no different or more inventive then anything I could have had elsewhere. I could have stretched and ordered something a bit more unique, but there is something about ordering French classics from a place that cranks out a ton of food every night that just kind of persuaded me not too. My girlfriend had the Knife and Fork Chicken Club and it was uninspiring to stay the least. It's hard to believe that a place that offers a local heirloom and imported burrata salad can't swing a decent piece of grilled chicken, but that was just the reality of it.

I will say that Salut is a great place to hit f you have a large group, would like to dine outside, or just want to enjoy some simple sandwiches and small plates. It has a fun setting and a fun cocktail/wine list. 

For me comparing Cave Vin to Salut is like comparing frites to french fries. If you are looking for some serious sizzle and some great interpretations on French classics, I would head to Cave vin, especially if their patio is available, or on Monday and Tuesday night when they run their half price wine special. If you are looking for a place where you can kick back and have a wide selection of food and cocktails and take your food snob hat off, then Salut will fit that bill just fine. 

I'm very lucky to live in an area that features many great places to eat just beyond my doorstep and a chain of lakes and a creek to offer a perfect setting for running all those meals off.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Little Plates at Cafe Maude - Literally

Now, I know what you are thinking, I'm about to bash the size of the portions. You will not be subject to that rant here. I am well aware of the obesity-friendly portions that are often served in our hibernation-friendly state, but I thought the portion sizes at Cafe Maude http://www.cafemaude.com/ were just fine. That is not my knock. My knock on Maude isn't the service either. I've seen many a review where the critic eludes to the host, service and reservation policy (seriously, just hop on http://www.opentable.com/start.aspx?m=46 or go late on a non-traditional dining night and you'll be able to get in - not so TR-Sat) as rude. Not here. Nope, I've always had a good service experience there.

So here's my knock: The plates are too small. Literally. The dishes, dude. I get that they are an a la carte service. But if I order a side with my entree, where the am I supposed to put it? I recently enjoyed a meal at Maude with several friends. I had the lamb skewers which were awesome - it was great to integrate currants into my diet again after subjecting my system to the typical colon blocking, Minnesotan winter fare . My girlfriend had the Moroccan chicken which was well prepared and very well seasoned - spices/flavor penetrated beyond the skin and was well integrated through the flesh. Here's the issue though. You plop half a chicken (bone in nonetheless!) down on a small plate and where do you put the sides you had to order? Our dinner for six quickly tuned into a dodge ball game of french fries, asparagus and braised greens. Simply put, on the shell prawns and bone in chicken on a tiny plate leaves no room for sides ,let alone any sort of surface to navigate the bones with silver or clean a prawn. I would recommend getting bread plates for the sides, but that would leave zero room on the table if you are normal and enjoy wine/a cocktail with dinner. A water glass, wine glass, entree plates, side plates, and a plate for each individual diner to harbor the side leaves no room whatsoever. The best answer is to get some people you are really comfortable with and be ready to laugh if a french fry rolls onto your neighbors dish or your brother accidentally shovels some asparagus onto your dress pants.

I will say that I've enjoyed my food at Cafe Maude the two times I have dined there (although the warm flat bread I had the first time featured a Goliath portion of dense, flavorless, cold romesco), but solving the table clutter would make this place exceptional in my book. Until then you can catch me every so often at this neighborhood cafe stuffing my face as quickly as possible so we can make room for all the other small plates.

Happy Eating

-Teddy

Heidi's - Dangerously Close to Home

http://www.heidismpls.com/menu.htm


After months of waiting for the right reason I finally ate at Heidi's. I had heard plenty about it and have been intrigued for quite some time.Pretty much everything I've read says the same thing... "Why is the old Pane Vino Dolce space so loud", "what's up with the service?" and "good luck getting in there..." Yes it's true many of the neighborhood joints near me have been getting blasted for the toughness of a table and sloppy service, but at the same time many of the places have been celebrated for the imagination of their food. I soon found that the food at Heidi's more then balanced out any of the previously associated discrepancies.

We actually walked in on a Tuesday night... had to wait about 5 minutes at 8:30, but we still walked in. When I initially walked in the sound level was noticeably loud, but Heidi (who was hosting) soon led us around the corner to the side room which was pleasantly quite. Reservation tip - call a few days if not a few weeks in advance and request a table in the side room. It instantly alleviated my concerns, but alas, this was just one visit.

The next knock on Heidi's is the service. I've had some odd dinners in this city and I think no one will argue that as a whole, the Twin Cities food scene is a bit behind the ball when it comes to service, but as long as I have some int iced taste buds I normally don't mind. That being said, our dinner service was about as awkward as the first time you hit the showers after gym class in middle school... It seemed like our server wasn't comfortable in his own skin. Imagine watching one of your friends approaching someone at the bar for the first time, and totally blowing it... The silver service at Heidi's is really too much. We had our silver changed about 5 times throughout our simple, 2 course meal. I felt like a baby chimp getting picked over by a silver back as they reached around me, over my back and at one point actually went under my girlfriends arm to retrieve a piece of silver from a semi-eaten plate without even asking. The greatest offense - The Old Rasputin. Old Rasputin is a beautiful Russian Stout - a bit tangier then a good old Guinness, but still very nice. Anyone who knows their stout knows that it is to be poured carefully. My waiter popped the top and poured this thing as if trying to give Tom Cruise's character in Cocktail a run for the money. Needless to say there was more foam on the pour then I would have bargained for. Despite that fact, beer is beer and none is to be wasted.

Now on to the food. There are many things about food that excite me, including discovering and re-discovering flavors. Now, normally the bread basket isn't all that exciting, and Heidi's didn't look like anything special, but it was late and I was hungry so I tore into a piece of the bread. Two words: Grandma Fazio. The second that bread hit my tongue I instantly flashed back to running around my great Grandma's kitchen as a little boy while watching her kneed dough for the evening meal. Nothing short could ever erase that smell ans taste from my memory and to be able to revisit that feeling was truly special. She has been gone for years and my palate longs to taste her food once again. Major points for Heidi's. That experience alone was more then worth the the awkwardness endured from the waitstaff. Next, my date and I tore into the "Chicken Lollipops." which was a nice little spicy, savory twist on your typical chicken wing appetizer. Paired with a crunchy frisee and candied apricots, the flavor profile was diverse and satisfying - now we're talking. For my main course I went against my carnivorous calling and went with a vegetarian Pappardelle. Pure unadulterated silk has nothing on the texture of their rich, buttery noodles. Perfectly cooked and adorned with the lightest dusting of cheese, this is a serious dish. The Bolognese was traditional in it's foundation but had some lovely chard and magnificently rustic porcinis to accompany the robust flavors of the tomato base. This dichotomy of texture was flavorful, imaginative and far from expected. I loved it. It was the perfect buttery, velvety pasta for a cold winter's night. I sampled my girlfriend's pea and carrot risotto with roasted chicken. Typically risotto at this time of year would be paired with a winter preparation of cheese, cream, root vegetables or simple mushrooms, but the pea and carrot was a refreshing surprise and added a lightness that is typically not experienced with a proper winter risotto. It was fresh and invigorating and all around very pleasent. The bone-in chicken was delicate, well prepared and simple. The flavor combination with the risotto was a perfect fit. Everything was well seasoned and managed to avoid the over-salted, over cheesed pitfalls that we typically run into in the MN winter dining scene. We left the table full, satisfied and conspiring for a return visit soon. It looks like I've found another hit close to home. Now if they could just figure the service out...

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

A nice little Friday in Lent

I typically dread Fridays during the 40 days of Lent as I am Catholic and for one whole day a week, I am deprived the privilege to consume meat other than seafood (See Mom, I really do adhere to the rules sometimes). Most people would think "He's complaining about seafood? What's this Guy's problem? I'll have the lobster, please." Well, it's not that easy. Although I'm sure I would enjoy most varieties of shellfish, I also have proven highly allergic to some and the thought of rolling the dice on one of the many varieties I have yet to try and having to watch my mother or girlfriend plunge an EpiPen into my thigh as I try not to violently explode on the restaurant floor is not my idea of a great dining experience.

Now in the grand scheme of things this sacrifice seems really insignificant (probably because it in fact, is), but then again depriving a natural born carnivore his favorite sustenance can start to irritate a guy, especially after a long day at work. However, I will say that I've started to find a few places right near my house that offer Lent friendly meals in warm environments that help to alleviate my steak, chicken and pork deprived pains.

Last night I found both a savory meal and a comfortable location at Cafe 28 http://www.cafetwentyeight.com/. The setting is in an old historic firehouse in the friendly confides of charming Linden Hills. I've eaten there several times and really enjoy the fact that they not only embrace local products, but they also embrace the needs of the Lent weary crowds. Last night, I had the Tuna Melt which is far from typical. They take a nice light albacore and blend it with spicy jalapenos, cilantro and lime juice, slide on a nice piece of creamy cheese and lightly grill it on nice thick sourdough bread. It was the perfect light, warm and satisfying meal for someone who was looking for something other then the typical pasta or cheese pizza on a Lenten night.

My cohorts had the Friday night fish fry which is absolutely fantastic and could make even the most seasoned Minnesotan Scandinavian smile. You get a few nice pieces of lightly breaded and fried Walleye, some nice salty, crispy fries and a little dish of cole slaw. Now, I can't say I'm a huge fan of dill in my slaw, but the fact that you can get an Ice cold PBR ($3) to wash down your meal and get out of there for less then $20 more then makes up for it. If you are a native Minnesotan you can at least appreciate what they are doing. Overall Cafe 28 has several dishes that can help you forget that you are even making a Friday night sacrifice. They offer a wide selection of locally brewed Surly beer as well as an accomplished list of Belgian beers if you are looking for something a bit different. I'll add their blog (http://www.cafetwentyeight.com/wordpress/) to my link list so you can keep up with this nice little cafe. They offer a weekly fish special that is far from typical, and the service/ownership is a s sweet as can be. Overall it's a pretty nice fit for quite, comfy, cozy Linden Hills.

Stay tuned for more updates if you are looking to upgrade form the Fillet-o-fish default on a Friday in Lent.

Happy eating...

-Teddy