2009 Best of: Pasta

For some odd reason Minneapolis seems to have an impeccable pasta scene. I'm not sure what factors contribute to that but there is not shortage of really good, fresh pasta, both traditional and inventive.

The Winner: Broders' Tagliarini di Locanda de Lupo

It's typically pretty easy to hand this distinction off to them, but this year they had some very stiff competition. They've been doing there thing for years and it really shows. Their pasta has always been spot on in my numerous visits over the years. They make killer fresh pasta and adorn it with only the utmost care, and incredible and lavish ingredients. The tagliarini isn't always on the menu, but I'll always want to eat there when it is. An incredibly luxurious combination of prosciutto de parma, truffle pesto and cream is the back bone of this killer presentation and the sauce simply smothers the fresh pasta. It's truly an incredible dish that needs to be tasted, not read about.

Runner Up: Trattoria Tosca's fettuccini

Newcomer Tosca kills it in the pasta department, too. This Linden Hills gift serves a very limited and very seasonal menu, but when what you serve is so good, there really is no reason to complicate. The fettuccinni is rich beyond compare. A combination of rich and nutty grana padano, salty and robust fischer bacon and three, yes three egg yolks make a perfect silken sauce. A sprinkle of fresh herbs and some nice carmel notes from a bit of roasted cauliflower and you've got a really solid dish.

Runner Up #2: Bar La Grassa's Orecchiette with Braised Rabbit

Becker's newest offering is no slouch in the pasta department either, offering an array of inspiring new spins and traditional takes on old pasta favorites. If I'm at a pasta joint and there is rabbit or boar on the menu I am usually sold and Becker's menu was no different the little orecchiette had an amazing texture and held little cupfuls of delicious and delicate braised rabbit, herbs and tomato. This was a truly rustic and comforting dish that is not to be missed, either.

It was a great year for pasta!

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Community Service

I had an awesome meal at Bar La Grassa the other night (more thoughts in another post), but something beyond the food caught my attention. I was taking in the room while I enjoyed some antipasti, and I quickly recognized one of the waiters as a favorite from Lucia's. I was initially a bit distraught, because Lucia's is my favorite neighborhood spot, and although La Grassa was fabulous, and had excellent service in my opinion, I simply wouldn't be eating there as frequently as Lucia's. I managed to pass the waiter on the way to the bathroom and stopped to inquire about his new gig. Thankfully he informed me that he was actually working at both establishments, and that a good chunk of the staff worked at multiple restaurants as well.

At first I thought this was a bit odd, but when you think about the service industry, it makes sense. Let's be honest, service in this city has been hotly debated, and good, trained help is hard to find. I for one am much happier knowing that competent servers are sharing the wealth and the good establishments are training solid service and dispersing it to other restaurants. If I'm a restaurant owner, and I know I can get some people on my staff that already know their stuff, I'd be beyond happy to hire them on for a few shifts a week, so they can swing their other gig and help set a great example for my staff as well.

In fact, I think working in multiple environments will expose waitstaff to a larger range of clientele and various service concepts, that in the long run will help improve service across the city. Don't get me wrong, there are many restaurants that really do get service, but I think we all agree that the local industry could step it up in this department.

Now, that being said I also couldn't help but notice that my favorite butcher was working back in the kitchen. All I can say is that the dude is super knowledgeable and beyond helpful when it comes to the butcher case, so I really, really hope I see him behind the counter next time I walk into Clancey's.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy