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Sunday, January 11, 2009

Mexican Food Extravaganza

We are blessed to have good friends who have their own place down in Puerto Vallarta and are generous enough to share their escape with us. We headed down to Puerto Vallarta for the New Year and had a great time. The food was great, the weather was superior, and the friendship was incredible. We visited a number of beaches, took a boat out into Banderas Bay and enjoyed several meals at nice restaurants along with too many cervezas.



The highlight of the trip may have easily been getting back to fresh, locally sourced produced straight from the farm. Some people may find it intimidating to cook your own food in the land of Mantazuma's Revenge, but our friends had found good places to go and we enjoyed several nice meals at their place. The one thing I will mention is that a foreign butcher shop is not for the faint of heart!
The produce down there is super fresh and best if used immediately. We made several trips to the market over the course of the week, and each trip was well worth it. We got our hands on fresh cilantro, ripe avocados, fresh sour cream, tortillas that were pressed right before our eyes and delicious, lip-burning and flavorful salsas. Cooking and gathering around the table together was a special treat elevated by the fresh and flavorful foods.

We also enjoyed several nice meals in local restaurants that featured settings that could not be matched. We were lucky to have such knowledgeable hosts that also have an eye and stomach for good food, and they helped us navigate our way to some great meals in places that thankfully, were not crawling with tourists.

I already miss Puerto Vallarta and have to get back down there soon. For now, I'll just try and stay warm by keeping my oven busy. The chicken is roasting and the bread is rising!

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

The Best of Hungry in Southwest

As the year comes to a close and I spend more time dining with friends and family instead of in restaurants, I thought I would put out a "Best of" list. Now keep in mind this is just the opinion of a few folks who do not have heavy duty food credentials, but just love to eat, and love to dine out often. Please feel free to comment and offer your opinions. Dialogue is always welcome!

Best Neighborhood Cafe: Blackbird Cafe
I love the atmosphere, the servers are friendly and the menu is dynamic and inventive. You can usually call ahead and get in quickl, and it's conveniently located for anyone living in SW but not to far from Lyndale and the surrounding highways.

Best Small Plates: Cafe Maude
I love sharing plates of different foods with friends and dining companions, and Cafe Maude is set up to make that happen. Their cumin and honey kissed chicken wings are simply delicious.

Best Burger: The Lion's Tap
It's pure, unadulterated burger bliss. Nothing fancy, just a good old-fashioned burger dive. The 112 eatery gets a hefty Honorable Mention nod. Their burger couldn't be any different then what you can get at Lion's Tap, but it's really, really good.

Best Italian: La Grolla
This one is hard, but I'm going with La Grolla. You would be hard pressed to find an Italian joint that offers more of a diverse menu and corresponding specials on a nightly basis. The kicker is that they do everything well from top-to-bottom whether its soup, pasta, seafood or any one of their traditional Italian offerings.

Best French: Cave Vin
This place holds a special place in my heart. Their servers/owner are both warm and charismatic, and their food is top drawer. Their entire kitchen staff has been on since the opening, and that doesn't happen often. It's a true testament to what they do. Their pork tenderloin is inspiring and their mussels are heralded by many as the best in town.

Best Mexican: Indio
There is plenty of really good, authentic Mexican food in Minneapolis, and I think the food at Indio is right up there. The service has been shaky in a previous trip, but it was much better the second time and the food is explosively flavorful and perfectly spicy.

UPDATE! Hate to say it, but Indio has closed. Tear! Went by on my way to Tum Rup Thai, and it was empty. I was worried, and it looks like my fears were warranted. I fear the price point would hurt them considering there are good Mexican joints near by at much lower prices. Too bad, but i know there are some other choice places in the cities to hit for some good Mexican

Best Latin American Food: Cafe 28
OK, maybe this is a bit of a stretch given the above category, but their braised pork in adobo and chilaquiles are outstanding and worth the mention. I'll be searching for a rival chilaquile offering when I head to Mexico in a few weeks.

Best Mediterranean: Shish
It may not have a colossal menu, but they do everything well from Gyros, to Shawarma and some really good Mediterranean style burger. Their kebabs are also quite nice.

Best Pasta: Broders'
They do everything well. Their homemade pasta is always perfectly al dente and anyone that serves Chingale (boar) gets some serious cred from my taste buds.

Best Sandwich: 112 Eatery
Everything they make is comforting and delicious. The Bacon, Egg and Harrisa sandwich is no different. The cilantro offers a snap of freshness and the smoky harrisa really packs a wollop. Plus it has fried egg and bacon on it, and what could be better then that?

Best Outdoor Dining: W.A. Frost
No contest. They got great booze credentials and the setting is totally enchanting. As soon as it hits 65, I'm there even if Jess and I are the only ones. Their bar menu is pretty good to. Nice and comforting on days when it might still be a bit to chilly to dine outside!

Best Bar Menu: Nick and Eddie
The offerings are tasty, made from scratch and diverse. Oh, and by the way, J.P. Samuelson is there now. I don't need to say anything more.

Best Breakfast: Zumbro Cafe
If I call a place and there's a 45 minute wait I usually abandon ship, but not here. The frittatas at Zumbro are too good to pass up. Plus I can give them my name and cell phone and run up to Great Harvest and the Linden Hills Co-op while I wait!

Best Cheap Eats: Broders' Cucina Italiana
Everything is good and fast. They make awesome risotto cakes, killer sandwiches and the pizza is no slouch either. It's right around the corner from me and really tough to pass up, especially when I need an Italian fix and the Pasta Bar is packed (when isn't it?!).

Best Grab and Go Lunch: Rustica
This is a no-brainer. Combine some dangerously good sandwich fixings from Corner Table and throw in perfect savory breads from Rustica and you can't go wrong. You can just grab them right out of the refrigerator case (I wouldn't plan on a late lunch here, they go fast!).

Best Value: Tum Rup Thai
The spice can power through any MN head cold and the dishes are rich in flavor. Plus, they're super cheap and I can't even power all the way through their colossal portions. I always leave with lunch for tomorrow and a surprising amount of cash in my wallet.

Best Deli: Be'wiched
These guys work hard at preparing/smoking their own meats and take serious pride (and they should) in doing so. The sandwiches are a lunch savior and are robust enough to blast your biceps as you shovel one down.

Best Take Out: Punch
Their pizzas are really quite good and the perfect size to split over an accompanying salad with a good companion. The toppings are fresh and flavorful and the pies always come out with a perfect crust. Plus, if you time it right you can get in and out real quick!

Best in a Bun: Kramarczuk's
These guys make unreal sausages in just about every style you can imagine. They're great at lunch, or swing by any day and grab some to bring home to grill. They're awesome on a good roll with some substantial mustard, or all dressed up however you like!

Best St. Paul Institution: Cossetta's
I love this place. They have a great Italian deli and serve up heart warming pastas, sandwiches, pizzas and other Italian favorites. It's cafeteria style so you can get your food quick and chow down with some good friends. It's been around for years and is the place to head to before a game or a night out in St. Paul.

Best Minneapolis Institution: The Convention Grill
This joint is your classic Malt Shop. Their burgers are nice old-fashioned offerings, and their chicken soup is old-school good. The chocolate-banana malt is unreal and the old surly waitresses are one of a kind.

Best Place for Food Lovers: Midtown Global Market
Whether you are looking for some quick, tasty food or running into grab some quick produce or ethnic wonders, you can make it all happen right here. I like to go down and hit one of the stands (Los Ocampo is a favorite) then pick up a few things I can't find at other area groceries. It's nice stop on a cold winter day, or the perfect place to grab ripe avocados for a spur of the moment summer fiesta.

Best Comeback: Levian
I used to love to watch Steven Brown labor in his kitchen at Levain, and when it shut down I felt heart broken. Then it reopened and I was a bit bashful to return without Steven at the helm, but I decided to head back and was overjoyed with the results. The watercress soup was delightful and the tenderness of the short ribs was intoxicating. I am dedicated to getting back there in the depths of winter for their truly comforting aromas and winter-ready menu.

Best Dessert: Gigi's
Their Key Lime Tart is the gospel of all tarts. It's so lush and bright and silky smooth. The lime zest offers a nice robust touch to the creamy, tart filling and their is simply nothing better to cool off with in the summer. Their case is always full of great dinner options and their date friendly dinners are cheap and super tasty.

Best Atmosphere: Bar Lurcat
This is the perfect place to throw on something fancy, sip on a powerful cocktail and work your hardest to not stain your new outfit with the wonderful juices rolling off the perfectly sinful Cafe Lurcat mini burgers. Just be sure to wipe up any sugar crystals left over from the mini donut binge before you finally work up the courage to approach that vixen in the corner.

Best Salad: Wildfire
OK, OK, I know. I don't dig eating at malls, but their chopped salad is huge and filled with the good stuff! Bacon, chicken, and avocado? It could drive a sane man crazy, plus it's big enough to actually fill you up! It's quite good, and the take out counter lets you get in and out quick!

Best Fries: Meritage
I didn't expect it either, but these were seriously helped out by the bold and salty hanger steak they accompanied. They were perfectly salty and crisp and just down right delicious!

Also, Duplex gets Honorable Mention for their tasty little Sweet Potato fries. I've become disenchanted with the place over the past year, but I have to give credit where credit is due, because those suckers are tasty!

Best New Restaurant: Heidi's
The first meal I had their was a spiritual event I thought could not be recreated, until I arrived the second time. The meal was just as good, and the service much more polished. I've enjoyed everything I've devoured there, and I feel good knowing that Stewart is painstakingly crafting my meal back there in his own little food sanctuary. I'll have to get back again to see if they can pull it off for a third time and my gut (my best advisor) leads me to believe I'll be just as satisfied time and time again.

Have a wonderful Christmas and let me know YOUR "Best of" list. I need some new places to eat!

Happy Eating,

-Teddy












Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Recession Saviors - The Bar Menu


I tend to cruise Twin Cities based food blogs and magazines quite frequently, and can't help but notice that just about every single one of them seem to layer in stories about restaurant closings, followed by stories about ways to enjoy meals in the Twin Cities on the cheap. It's hard to justify spending money on dining out these days, but whether you go the prix fixe route, hit a happy hour, or eat early bird/night owl, there are ways to enjoy good food, and enjoy it with friends and family without taking to big of a shot in the wallet. Although all the above are great strategies, my favorite way to enjoy good food and have a good time out on the town is still the Bar Menu. Yep, W.A. Frost has a mean one, ditto for Lurcat, and know, I can add Nick & Eddie to the list.



My brother was able to score tickets to a screening of the British Advertising Awards last night at the Walker, and I jumped at the venue's proximity as a chance for me to make good on a promise to head back to Nick and Eddie to enjoy their bar menu. The deal was even sweeter, with the recent news that J.P. Samuelson had taken a position there. Needless to say, I was excited.

I plopped down on a bar stool with my brother and our girlfriends and immediately looked over the menu, which was simply a formality as I had studied the menu online well before showing up. With a pint of Guinness on the way Jess and I went over our options and we settled on a menu well suited for the frigid bite in the air. What better way to beat the cold then to enjoy a meal of smoked chicken tacos, Swedish meatballs, and a good old fashioned hot dog with giardiniera and some nice salty fries?
Now many people think of bar food as simple, and cheap for a reason, but the thing about it, is that there are many places that do it very well, and you can place Nick and Eddie in that court. The tacos were very good and made with fresh ingredients. When people think cheap, they often believe the quality must fail, but that was not the case here. Flavorful corn tortillas (no flour, folks) proved the perfect vehicle for a marriage of smokey chicken, a luscious, spicy sauce, bright cilantro and fresh lime wedges to garnish. They were simple, fresh and flavorful. Not something you may expect from a bar.


The meatballs came out assembled in a circle surrounded by a rich and creamy sauce. No lumps, no chunks, just smooth rich flavors. The meatballs were obviously hand rolled, based on their texture and imperfect shape. The surface provided the perfect canvas for the sauce to adhere to, and each bite provided a wonderful wave of succulent pork and beef.

Lastly, came what I considered the crown jewel of the meal. The hot dog was perfect. A salty little treat with a good snap from the casing. Both good signs of authenticity. The house-baked bun was fantastic. It was sprinkled with Poppy seed and was far more substantial then the typical dog. The outside was a bit crisp and flaky - likely from a bit of egg wash or a smattering of butter for baking, yet remained pillowy and chewy beneath the surface. The dog tasted rich, and far from the over processed frankfurters of my youth. The explosive giardiniera added some serious heat, and flavor far beyond the aid a sport sport pepper provides to a classic Chicago style dog (no knock on the Chicago style - they are one of my favorite snacks). The stack of salty fries that accompanied the dog provided a perfect escape from the cold, and at the end of the day (night) what could be better the a good dog, some salty fries and a cold beer?


The fact that the dog and pile of fries only costs $4 is near comical, and I felt as if I was almost cheating the restaurant out of something. Nick and Eddie place a great emphasis on their scratch kitchen and commitment to superior ingredients and it plays out well at both the bar, and the table. I'll find a reason to be back there soon, because lord knows, I will find myself in need of good old dog far before the thaw here in SW Minneapolis, and I know a place where I can get a perfect summery treat.

If anyone out there has any suggestions on another good bar menu to try, please pass it along. As I noted above, I still think dining at the bar is a great way for a quick dinner, at a convenient price without sacrificing the pursuit of great food.
Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Musings of Maude

I love going out to a good dinner, and it had been a while since I'd ponied up and was itching to go out and enjoy a nice night. There's nothing better then walking into a room with a great atmosphere, intense aromas and some good friends to peek your appetite. Sitting down to vibrant food, and cocktail-laced conversation is pretty much my ideal. Unfortunately, between the holidays and the economy, I haven't been able to do it as much, but I'm not going to let it slow me down much anymore.



You can't read a restaurant blog without cringing over closings and small attendance, so I wanted to make an effort to hit a good spot somewhere close to home in order to keep the money in the community much like some of the pillars of the local food movement. I figured I'd head to Cafe Maude just down the street just in case the Armatage Room was open to give a new enterprise a shot. Their wine bar menu, featured Tuesday-Sunday when they don't have a private booking looked incredibly appealing and had some really imaginative offerings. It turns out it wasn't open (instant heartache) on this particular night, but we did score a seating in the main restaurant.



The vibe was strong as normal. Good house music, a strong neighborhood pulse and the clinking of wine glasses provided the rhythm to a good night of eating. Jess and I decided to go light given the recent holiday, but we found that we didn't have to suffer at all for it. Jess ordered there roasted corn chowder - I was eyeing it myself and knew I was in for a bite (mututal understanding) so I gravitated to the nicoise olive chicken flat bread.



The soup came out first and it was a nice substantial bowl. The texture was surprising - not your cream of corn standard, and played really well - robust enough to be a meal. The corn was roasted and sweet, and the fine dice on the potatoes soaked up the flavors well while offering substance. A nice red pepper component rounded out the broth flavors, which really paled in comparison the the crispy bacon and avocado topping. bacon and avocado is pretty much where it's at for me. I think they should run for the presidency in 2012. I'd be the first to sign on. The bacon was perfectly crispy and the avocado was smooth and luscious. Needless to say this was not your status quo soup, and follows Maude's blueprint for taking simple fare and really jazzing it up.



My deconstructed flat bread came out and looked really nice and fresh. I love arugula and it's peppery bite was a welcome feeling. The flat bread itself was a bit tough, and the pickled herb spread was a bit bland, but it really allowed the other flavors to stand out and do their thing. The feta was strong and pungent - a good mix with arugula and the chicken was cooked well and played with it's fellow party-goers well. The roasted red pepper offered some sweetness, and the raw, diced zucchini was an excellent, and unconventional addition. I've never really had raw zucchini in a dish now that I think of it, and it stood up really well. The olives actually played out as a puree which was really satisfying in the fact that it could now hit every bite and wasn't limited to just rolling around on my plate. Again, deconstruction at it's finest. It wasn't the best dish I've had at Maude, but it's a creative little insight into their world, and I left satisfied and happy, which is just what I was looking for. I'll say it again, there is nothing quite like spending a nice evening with good company, great food, and an enticing ambiance.



Next time, I'm going to hit the Armatage Room for sure!



Happy Eating,



-Teddy

Monday, November 24, 2008

Beware of Laptops - Common Roots Cafe

I've been intrigued by all that I've been reading about the Common Roots Cafe. Word on the street is that they have a mean bagel, and are celebrated for their devotion to local, sustainable and organic foods. I highly commend them for that and was looking very forward to heading there for a nice meal last Friday night.

First off, I have to sound off on the status of Lyndale Ave. It's a shame how long that's been torn up. It's a royal pain, in terms of getting around and has to be a huge hindrance to all the businesses in the area. After some driving around we finally made it to the Cafe and did the Minnesota cold walk (hunched sholders, hands buried in pockets, quick-choppy steps) from our parking spot.

I entered the room and was amazed at how many people were there on a Friday evening at about 8:45. The place was littered with people, but my attention was quickly diverted by two different but very important distractions. Upon taking a few steps in I noticed that the place just wasn't that clean. There were dishes all over tables and quite a bit of debris on the floors. I was a bit shocked by it, but hey, it was late, I was hungry and I figured everything would eventually get turned into compost or something. I was a bit discouraged by the counter service and server - again cleanliness of the space, and knowledge of the server, but we settled on the burger (I had heard good things) and the Chicken involtini/meatloaf that the server highly recommended.
We sat down and started to sip our drinks and I noticed the second distraction. This one held my attention longer then the cleanliness, and was a very bad sign in my mind: Everyone was on a laptop. Shit! I had just ordered dinner at a place that everyone else deemed a laptop joint. I was officially nervous. No one would ruin a good meal by surfing Craig's list, finishing a paper, or seeking a companion on match.com. No, they were likely here for other reason, and were not seeking stellar food.
Nervously I sat there and sucked down my Finnegan's as I waited in fearful anticipation. After a decent wait or food came out and I gave it a serious once-over. As usual, Jess and I had settled on 2 items with the intention to share. I started with the meatloaf and was totally underwhelmed. It was essentially flavorless, and the texture was quite odd - a granular tofu maybe? I think the "involtini" distinction was because they wrapped the loaf in the chicken skin. It was kinda gross. The slab of polenta that was served with it was greasy, limp and unappealing. It was all served on a bed of arugula which was the only portion of the plate with any flavor. Unfortunatley it had already drown in the grease from the meatloaf and polenta. Neeldless to say Jess didn't enjoy the dish (The one bite she managed) either and my suspision that I wasn't being very open was eliminated.

The burger was much better. I love a good grass-fed burger, and normally I'm all for goat cheese and caramelized onions, but the burger ended up being pretty sweet and a little top-heavy. The burger was definitely beyond my medium request, but still managed to retain a juicy consistency - which made me wonder what they added to it to maintain the juices despite the lean cut. The bun was very good, and grilled nicely. It was the best part of the meal, which was disappointing, however, I can now see that they do have some baking credentials

I learned my lesson: Never order dinner from a place where everyone else is on a laptop regardless of what you've heard others say. We didn't even finish our meal, and that is no small offense given my intense love for food. I'd maybe go back to Common Roots Cafe for baked goods or a sandwich. It seemed capable of pulling that off, and maybe if I got there earlier in the day the place would be cleaner. I'd like to see a place so dedicated to quality food succeed, but you won't catch me there for dinner again.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy




Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Heidi's Part 2

So, I went to Heidi's for my girlfriend's birthday the other night and I'm happy to report that the food was incredible, and the service that I was so confused by the first time I visited was seamless and friendly. Really, the service was my only knock on the place and it was worlds better on this night. My apologies for the lack of pictures, but I didn't want to push my own agenda since it was a special occasion with good friends and family.

We went on a blustery Wednesday and the place was pretty darn full, as was the neighboring Blackbird Cafe where we enjoyed a pre-dinner drink. I called about a week in advance and could only get a 5 p.m. or 8 p.m. seating for a group of 6. Regardless, I'm glad the place is busy. With food that good, it should be.

So fortunately, I have friends that love to share so I got to enjoy several dishes over the course of the night. I had the hibernation-ready braised lamb shank. The meat was slide-off the bone tender and had a very deep lamb flavor. The braising liquid was robust and it sat on a nice wild rice salad. It was not a light dish, and braised lamb usually isn't. It was perfect for a nice cold Minnesota evening and was totally comforting.

My lady friend had the best dish of the night. It was essentially a pan seared chicken breast wrapped in a thin layer of delicate, crispy bacon. It was delicious and served on a flavorful cous cous with cauliflower. The true champion of this dish was the Kimchee beurre blanc. It was friggin amazing. I would have ordered a glass of it if possible. It tied everything together with a clean, spicy kick. The dish was seriously satisfying.

Last, I had a quick sample of the Australian Sea Bass. The bass had a perfect sear and the caramelized tones against the pure white fish was stunning. The moist, delicate fillet sat on a parsnip and parsley puree which offered a great texture and color contrast. Lastly, the creamy mussel foam added a tremendously rich flavor that balanced out the jolt of the parsley with the lightness of the fish.

I was very pleased with the experience yet again. It's hard having two great spots right next to each other, because I really enjoy Blackbird as well. Regardless, I'm in a good situation because they are both close to home, right here in SW.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy

Monday, November 3, 2008

More Maude in Armatage

Looks like all the Cafe Maude lovers are going to have even more to celebrate within the next week or so. Quite some time ago the owners of the beloved Armatage neighborhood eatery announced that they would open up a private dining space coined the Armatage Room, and it turns out that the space will act as a wine bar when it's not rented out for the night. This seems like a smart move given that I find it hard to believe that the private room would be booked solid every night, which is pretty ambitious for a neighborhood joint. Regardless, they're smart business owners and they wouldn't be opening the space unless they could smell success. I for one am glad that the much lauded Maude will be expanding. I reached out to Ruth who is in charge of the Armatage Room logistics and found her most helpful.

Based on our conversation, the space should be open any day now. I've heard rumblings of Nov. 15 and I believe the space seats up to 32 comfortably. The Armatage Room sounds impressive utilizing a European setting  and touting Canadian pine tables, soft leathers, custom chandeliers and local art. Needless to say the ambiance will be quite nice for both glass of vino and a private dining space.

My favorite feature will be the room's own open kitchen which will support the majority of the food preparation. There's something about having a view of the craftsman who labor over our meals that gives you a connection to the craft and the food.  The menu sounds fantastic and features a six course feast with several options for each course as well as a tasting menu made up of Hors D'oeuvres, soups, salads, entrees and desserts. In addition, they also offer family style dinners that pull from the traditions of several European countries - think paella, cassoulet and lasagna.  The wine bar menu is eclectic in the Cafe Maude style featuring salads (Cobb and Greek), cheeses, cured meats, a pasta dish, braised lamb, meatballs and scallops as well as a few sweets! The one bummer: No hard booze! That's especially depressing since they mix some mean spirits across the street, but I'm sure the wine and beer list will be up to the challenge. More details here.  

Since it's private dining they defer to some common catering practices such as menu selection within a certain time of deposit and a final count within a week of the event. The room minimum (at least initially) runs $750 Sunday through Thursday and jumps to $1500 on the weekends not including tax and gratuities. 

Regardless, more Maude is a good thing for all, in my opinion. I've had some great meals there and have even enjoyed swinging by for a a quick drink and a tasty small plate (they've got killer upscale chicken wings!) when not indulging in a full blown dinner. Hopefully the Armatage Room will help thin the crowd at the typically packed house, but somehow I have the feeling they'll still be packing in.

Happy Eating,

-Teddy
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